Cruise the beauty aisles of any natural products store, and you’ll wind up thinking that aloe vera is the most widely used ingredient in skin care products today.

It’s certainly got the credentials for a star role: The plump, spiky leaf of the cactus-like plant contains more than 75 nutrients and 200 active compounds, including 20 minerals, 18 amino acids and 12 vitamins. In fact, one researcher at the University of Texas Health Science Center described aloe as “a pharmacy in a plant.”

With so many healthful ingredients, it’s not surprising that studies have backed up what aloe fans have claimed for years: Aloe is good–really good–for skin. Not only does it relieve burns and speed healing (see Aloe + Health, p. 20), but there’s evidence that it helps prevent sun damage (read: aging), eases both psoriasis and frostbite, and improves collagen, the skin’s support structure. And, oh yes, it’s hard to find a better natural moisturizer.

No wonder every cosmetics maker on the planet seems to be adding aloe to their skin care treatments. In some cases (soaps, astringents), it’s just a little extra added goodie to up the skin-soothing quotient. But when you want intense moisturizing, and a chance at potentially deeper benefits too, potency counts. The International Aloe Science Council advises choosing products that contain 25 to 40 percent aloe. Rule of thumb: If the label doesn’t give percentages, look for aloe to be the first or second ingredient listed.

Aloe vera is best known as a soothing remedy for minor burns, rashes and wounds–but when it comes to burns, it does more than just ease pain and inflammation. Extensive research since the 1930s has demonstrated aloe’s ability to speed up healing. (See, moms do know best.) For instance, a Study in the 1990s of people with moderately severe burns found that those who used aloe gel healed in about 12 days, while-those who used a regular gauze dressing took 18 days to heal.

Aloe vera gel is also an effective treatment for psoriasis symptoms, insect bites and allergies, and it even helps lessen the painful effects of shingles. A micro-coating of aloe is now also found inside the latex gloves used by doctors, police and lab technicians to protect their hands from latex irritation. Applying the soothing gel to skin is worry-free except for a few unlucky people who, ironically, develop a mild allergic reaction (usually a rash or itching).

Aloe also comes in another form: juice. As a rule, the gel is used externally; the juice is taken internally. Aloe juice has laxative properties and acts as an anti-inflammatory; it can be used as a remedy for intestinal problems such as indigestion and irritable bowel syndrome. There may be bigger roles for aloe vera down the road too. Researchers are currently exploring the potential of aloe extracts to boost the immune system, combat HIV and treat certain types of cancer, particularly leukemia.

But for now, when buying aloe vera products for healing purposes, keep in mind that those containing “aloe vera extract” or “reconstituted aloe vera” may be much less potent than pure aloe (98 percent or more aloe vera). Aloe should be the first ingredient listed on the label.